I got new hiking boots! I went to REI because my old Ahnus have a lot of miles on them and are looking a bit wonky, and I needed some new waterproof boots for fall, winter, and spring hiking. I was looking for a pair I saw advertised in an email I got from a different outdoor gear company, but REI didn’t have those. I tried on a pair of Altra Lone Peak mid-high shoes and although I wear regular Lone Peaks for summer/dry weather hiking, I didn’t like the mids as much. Then I decided to try a couple of other pairs and liked the La Sportiva pair. Then I tried the wide women’s size and I liked that better for the wider toe box. Then I was disappointed because they only came in brown and not black, but THEN I realized that the men’s version came in black/gray and would have a wider toe box. And THEN the lady helping me told me that she has these same shoes, and they are very grippy and she loves them. So I was sold, and I can’t wait to wear them on Friday for our hiking adventure! (And if they don’t work out, I can return them, that’s why I buy my shoes at REI!)
PCT Days this year opened on Saturday at 8:30 a.m., so Marnie and I decided to get there at opening time in order to get a good parking space on the road. There were many, many more people there this year than prior years, mostly hikers, and Thunder Island (the camping area) was full to the brim with tents. We walked around and visited the vendor booths and picked up the goodies they were offering – there were stickers, headbands, lip balm, and even a cork massage ball, which if you buy one can cost as much as $10, so that was a great gift! There were a lot of things available that we didn’t even take. Marnie won a raffle prize from Backpacker Magazine. They played, “Never Have I Ever”, and she still had nine fingers up out of ten at the end of the game. The first ones out and the last ones standing got prizes.
There were a couple more food trucks this year than there have been in years past, but we went to the Eastwind Drive-In for our lunch again. They have a walk-up side and a drive-up side, but instead of having the walk-up side open they only opened the drive-up side so we stood in line with the cars to get our lunch. With cars driving in and others trying to get out of the parking lot, it was an interesting experience! Eventually cars and people were lined up clear out into the bike lane. When we were almost to the front of the line a couple of hikers named Galileo and Something Else came up and asked if we would get them milkshakes since we were already in line, and of course we said we would. Something Else was wearing a California flag as a cape, and Galileo was wearing a white tablecloth with lace inserts as a poncho or toga. It looked like he had had his friends sign his tablecloth. Fun!
As we made our rounds we were able to find Marmalade who we met in 2019 (on YouTube at Marmalade Outdoors), and we found our friend SnuzzNuzz who we spent time with in SoCal. SnuzzNuzz was very happy to see us, and it was nice to visit with both of them. We talked with a hiker named Autograph and SnuzzNuzz while we were sitting at one of the picnic tables, and the couple next to us had brought a whole large watermelon and a big knife and cutting board from home and she started cutting up that watermelon right then and there! The lady offered us each a slice of watermelon, which we gladly accepted. She got out all sorts of other food to share as well. We also found Legend, who we were not expecting to see! He is a trail angel and was setting up the hostel in Campo when we were there, and we spent a lot of time with him helping with the hostel and getting rides to and fro. He is hiking the trail with a German girl and they are only doing 5 to 10 miles a day, which Legend says is perfect for him. We stopped by the booth where Liz Thomas (who wrote the Long Trails book) was signing books and got a photo with her. She posted our photo on Instagram and had me do a video testimonial for her book! I wasn’t sure what to say but I hope it helped. I found another hiker named Ninja from Japan, and heard from someone else that there is a German girl also named Ninja. We were told that the Japanese Ninja looks more like a ninja then I do, ha. We found Boomerang, another hiker we met in SoCal at the Gold Rush Hotel in Julian. He and his friend Sailor had given us advice about our pack weight. We also met Kyle and Flossy from the Kyle Hates Hiking YouTube channel, and they were very gracious and let us fangirl for a minute! We saw Turtle, who we had met down at Scissors Crossing near Julian, Jupiter from his JupiterHikes YouTube channel, and Manny from Manny on Trail, also from YouTube.
We didn’t spend a whole lot of time looking in the vendor booths because neither of us really need anything, although I tried on an alpaca zip-up sweater in the Arms of Andes booth and it was really nice. The $250 price tag was a little high for my budget, though, but I am considering saving up for it. It is something that would last forever. There was a big stuffed alpaca at the booth and it was covered in real alpaca wool. We enjoyed petting it because it was so soft, and I thought they should make portable alpacas to use as stress relievers! It’s very calming to snuggle an alpaca!
We participated in a couple of vendor raffles but didn’t win anything at those. There were a ton of people at the Granite Gear giveaway as usual, and we could hardly hear the man as he called out the trail names they drew, he needed a megaphone! They Hyperlite Mountain Gear booth was giving out some nice prizes too, so I was a bit disappointed not to have won anything there. Marnie’s prizes from the Backpacker Magazine raffle were a hat and a little snap-together bowl. She also got a free hat from the Sawyer booth. I didn’t take a hat because I have so many already!
We saw people in many interesting outfits, a couple of girls were wearing satin lingerie robes as sweaters (I suppose they are light!) and one was wearing both the matching nightgown and robe! I think a few hikers had stopped by some thrift stores and picked out some things, ha. There were men in kilts and even skirts, and then the usual interesting thru-hiker ensembles. The people watching is always fun at PCT Days!
We both decided not to buy tickets to the big raffle at the end of the day, because the last couple of years we haven’t won anything and we didn’t know if we wanted to stay that late. We did end up leaving around 4:30 or 5:00 so we got home at a decent hour (still past my bedtime though!). The weather wasn’t too hot, which we appreciated, though we each did get a bit sunburned. All in all it was definitely a fun day!
This is something I hadn’t considered, but a new post from REI that I received in an email today takes the idea of layering clothing to a different level. It never occurred to me that who you’re hiking with might influence what you should wear!
Click link below to read the post:
In summer I always take (or wear in the morning) a light merino jacket when hiking, and in spring/fall/winter I take my puffy (Patagonia Micropuff) in my pack for lunch stops. I hardly ever start out wearing my puffy because I just get too warm too fast and have to stop to take it off, so I try to start off “cold” because I know I’ll warm up, especially if hiking uphill. When it is raining or snowing, I wear my rain jacket to stay dry, with a merino or fleece underneath. In cold weather I’m usually wearing a merino base layer top under my merino jacket or fleece, and if it’s very cold I’ll wear some base layer leggings under my hiking pants or rain pants. Sometimes if I know I will be exerting myself a lot I’ll wear my merino knee warmers instead of leggings, because my knees/shins get cold faster than the rest of my legs and then there is no danger of getting uncomfortably warm. I also wear a merino Buff to keep my neck cozy. I wore a sunshirt in the desert on the PCT with light pants, and with shorts for our July/August PCT backpacking trip in southern Oregon. (Advantage: get a great “hiker tan” from where your shorts hit down to where your socks come up to!) When backpacking, I always have my puffy for cool nights. I pretty much layer the same way no matter who I’m hiking with, but will think more about that from now on!
What’s your layering strategy? Comment below!
As we hiked toward Fish Lake, three horses and riders were coming along just as we had stepped over a small log across the trail. There are horse camps at various places along the PCT, and the PCT is graded for horses and hikers. Like any other area with usage by different categories of users, hikers and horsepeople are sometimes a bit at odds. The riders greeted us as we stepped aside to let them go on, but as we started up again the middle horse started bucking and having a fit when he saw that he would have to step over the log. The rider kept her seat admirably and managed to calm the horse down after a very long few seconds, as we watched from where we had stepped as far off trail as we could. We kept quiet and didn’t move so we wouldn’t make the horse more upset. They finally rode off and we were glad not to see them again! This is my concern about horses on the trail – the trail is usually narrow and there are many obstacles, horses are very big and often unpredictable, and sometimes there is no place to escape from an equine stampede! It’s always a relief when we pass horses without incident.
On the PCT in this section most of the PCT emblems are worn off the metal markers. We have come to recognize a blank, white metal diamond on a tree as marking the path of the PCT. On much of our hike we were entertained by graffiti that people had written on the diamonds, such as “Be a traveler, not a tourist,” “Just be kind,” “Born to be wild,” and other encouraging or just silly sayings. Some of them are even like the old Burma Shave signs and make a verse as you go along!
We soon came into Klum Landing Campground at Howard Prairie Lake, a large tent campground sort of in the middle of nowhere. Comments on the FarOut app said the campground had clean restrooms and showers but was mostly deserted, and we thought, “Clean restrooms and picnic tables? We’re in!” We got to the camp before anyone else did and picked a site near the restroom. The restroom was indeed clean and new, and well stocked with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap! (We didn’t check the showers but supposedly they were also quite nice.) There were no car-campers at all, a few cars pulled into the parking lot here and there but none of them stayed. We weren’t sure why the restroom was so well taken care of (I suppose just in case campers came in) but we appreciated it very much! More hikers came after we got there. A man in a pickup truck came around looking for a “tall blonde” while we were in our tents. He said he had some new food for a girl hiker because she wasn’t going to be cooking food anymore while hiking. It sounded a bit nonsensical and we thought it might have been just as well he didn’t find the girl. He said her name was Pepper.
Other than getting scraped and dinged going over logs, we weren’t too much the worse for wear by the time we got to Fish Lake. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land we walked through after Hyatt Lake was 10.5 miles of downed trees. We hit a number of log “nubbins” (what used to be a branch sticking out of a tree, now a short sharp thing sticking out in every inconvenient place on a log one has to go over) and one took a chunk out of my leg. During another log crossing I hit one and it HURT, and I told Marnie I was going to say a bad word. I managed not to, but only by the grace of God!
A lady we met both at Callahan’s and Hyatt Lake told us that the trail is better maintained in the National Forest and once we reached the Rogue River National Forest sign there wouldn’t be so many blowdowns. She was right, and it definitely made for much faster going. Marnie fell on the trail and “left a dent in it”, getting a skinned knee and leg and a bruise on her hip. I tripped on a step (I had gone up successfully many times before) going up into the cabin at Hyatt Lake and hit the deck and skinned my knee, wrenched a muscle in my back, and bumped some ribs. Thankfully, we hiked the 8 miles of lava flows between Hyatt Lake and Fish Lake without losing our balance, although I think it meant that I missed some nice views of Mt. McLaughlin and Mt. Ashland because I was concentrating on my feet so much. If you fall in the lava, at least part of you will land on a pointy rock. In fact, without a miracle all of you would land on a pointy rock. The trail maintainers have made a trail through it, but it is all either small rocks or medium rocks instead of dirt. Thru-hikers just glide over it, but hiking through the miles of lava was exhausting for us because we felt like we needed to watch every step. We were glad there were small shaded forest “reprieves” where we could rest a bit before tackling the next lava flow. I did wear my bug head net through the lava, though, because the bugs insisted on flying in my face and buzzing my ears which drives me bonkers, and I didn’t want to lose my footing because I was gesturing wildly at some insect! The lava flows were the most eventful part of the walk from Hyatt Lake to Fish Lake, so much of this is about our time at Fish Lake.
We arrived at the junction of the PCT and the Fish Lake trail and found a good sitting log to rest on there, glad to be done hiking through that lava! One trail goes two miles to Fish Lake, and the other way goes six miles to Lake O’ the Woods Resort. A thru-hiker couple came by who were also going to spend some time at Fish Lake, and we said we’d see them there later and continued our little rest time. We had been rationing our water all day since there was no water source between our campsite and Fish Lake, so we finished it up knowing we only had two miles until we could get all the soda we wanted, ha. Marnie and I both had to use the “ladies room”, and had to walk up the less traveled trail towards Lake O’ the Woods to find a spot. I walked up aways and took a spot behind a shrub, but there weren’t a lot of private spots to choose from. In the middle of things I heard a noise and looked up, and there was a bicycle coming down the trail! I was, in the least, mortified! I hunkered down as far as I could, but the colors of my sunshirt are so bright I was certainly visible, and I’m sure the cyclist was aware of what was “going” on. Thankfully he just looked politely ahead and continued down the trail, and I put myself back together and hurried back to the junction. I sincerely hoped the cyclist was staying at Lake O’ the Woods and wouldn’t be coming back to Fish Lake, and I was glad that I could change into my “town clothes” at the resort and therefore not be recognized just in case he did come back in our direction!
The trail from the PCT to Fish Lake is a joy to walk on, two miles of wide, graveled path with only a couple of hills to go up. Once again we zipped up the trail, in anticipation of a good lunch this time and in hopes of getting a cabin for the night. We arrived on Thursday instead of Friday, and I had been praying the whole day that we could get a cabin with a bathroom to stay in Thursday night so we could get our showers in our own private bathroom instead of having to use the “communal” shower. I never know what to do with my feet in those things. Do I stand directly on the shower floor? (Ick.) Do I wear my Crocs in and then just stand on top of them so I can wash my feet, and then have to put my feet in my wet Crocs to walk back to the cabin? (Also ick.) We didn’t have to answer that question though, as God answered, “Yes,” to my prayers and someone had checked out early and left Cabin 5 available to us. We had to wait a couple of hours for the cabin to be cleaned, so we had some BLTs and curly fries and milkshakes for lunch on the restaurant deck and talked to the couple we had seen at the junction. They were busy planning their resupply and their next few stops.
When the cabin was ready we gleefully scampered up to it and took our showers! You see, Fish Lake’s “rustic” cabins that we had reserved for Friday and Saturday nights don’t have bathrooms. They do have a little kitchen area with cold running water and a fridge, so at least one can wash one’s face and brush one’s teeth, but we needed showers and the private bathroom was such a blessing! God takes good care of us! (We had cleverly brought the tiny bottles of shampoo and tiny bars of soap with us from the cabin at Hyatt Lake, just in case there were no amenities like that at Fish Lake, and it was a good thing we did. There wasn’t even any soap for the shower!)
We enjoyed our time at Fish Lake, even though there was a heat wave going and the resort doesn’t supply any fans in the cabins. (This is made clear on their website.) Both days it was 90 degrees out already at around 10:30 a.m. Cabin 5 had a screen door so we could let the evening air in until bedtime and a covered porch where we could sit as the air cooled a bit, and we each kept a cold washcloth near us or on us to try to keep cool. The rustic cabin did not even have a screen door, so we opened the windows (except the one over the bed, which had a big crack in it mended with packing tape) and attempted to sleep. By the time we were both awake in the morning the cabin had finally cooled off enough to be comfortable. Unfortunately we both had to go to the bathroom in the night, but we walked there together and the road was very well lit. Neither of us likes to wander around by ourselves after dark.
We spent most of our time relaxing on the deck sending and receiving messages from our InReach satellite devices (no cell signal at the lake except AT&T) and just watching the people who were coming to the lake, which was most populated on Saturday. People brought their stand-up paddleboards, boats, kayaks, and unicorn floaties and had a great time beating the heat in the lake. There were many dogs paddling around as well and I was glad to see they all had life jackets to keep them safe. The view of the lake from the deck is partially blocked by trees, so we didn’t get photos of the lake-goers. The people working at Fish Lake, while not quite as delightful as the ones at Hyatt Lake, were perfectly nice (well, one girl was rude to Marnie, but I buttered her up by complimenting her polite little girl and she was okay after that) and the girl who worked the restaurant window was especially fun. She joked around with everyone and remembered our names and how to spell them, so we didn’t have to tell her every time. The days we were there we had milkshakes for lunch and then an early dinner, even though they were out of strawberries so couldn’t make a strawberry milkshake (the store was too far away to go get them, they said). They were not stingy with the whipped cream and it was lovely to have a cold milkshake with lots of whipped cream on the over-90-degree days!
There were chipmunks living at Fish Lake too, and at one point a little girl dropped her basket of curly fries on the ground. We watched a chipmunk stuff his little cheekies with curly fries, it was the cutest thing! They would come up onto the deck if there weren’t too many people and take food right out of your hand. I fed one some of my salad and he appreciated the lettuce and tomatoes. The next night I fed one a sweet potato fry and he enjoyed that as well. If it was a mouse or a rat, everyone would be freaking out, but chipmunks are so cute it’s okay when they beg for food, ha. They have better press, I guess!
We didn’t spend any time down at the lake ourselves, although while we were waiting for our laundry to finish we walked out to the beach near the R.V. park and took a look. The beach on that side was rocky and the water looked muddy, and that didn’t look like much fun to me, but we had seen many people going into the water from there. The sandy area was where the boat ramp went down, and since that was the nicest beach with the best access that was where most of the people sat and played. While watching the people, we also enjoyed watching the R.V.s come through and trying to figure out how much they cost! I was impressed by how they could get them down the narrow road and then maneuver them into the tight spaces in the R.V. park area. Driving goals!
While we were at Fish Lake we met other hikers including Packin’ (from New Zealand), Uncle Nomad, Tough Cookie, and Lively. We noticed Lively was very upset – there was a family tragedy and she needed to get home to the Seattle area. She and T. C. had scheduled an Uber for the next day to take them to Medford so they could rent a car and head to Washington. We talked with them for quite awhile that Saturday and hoped that they would get everything they needed.
On Sunday morning at 7:30 we were expecting to wait to go to breakfast when the restaurant opened at 9:00, and then wait for The Hubs to come get us. I expected him about 10:30 or so. We were all packed up and were about ready to go to the deck and hang out there, when we heard footsteps on the very creaky (seriously, in the night we thought we were going to wake up all the neighbors because of the creakiness) porch stairs and someone knocked on our door, and it was The Hubs! He had started from our house at 3:00 a.m. since he is used to being up around that time. We bundled our packs into the trunk of the old Avalon and started towards the front of the resort, where we found out that the Uber that was supposed to come pick up T.C. and Lively had overslept and wasn’t going to bother to come. Uncle Nomad was going to go to Medford to rent a car as well. The Hubs decided we could take them to the airport but we only had room for T.C. and Lively and their packs (barely), so Uncle Nomad said he would just go up to the highway and get a hitch. He had started out hiking but came back already that morning, the smoke was getting bad from the fires in southern Oregon and NorCal and he didn’t want to hike in it. I felt bad that he couldn’t go with us, and we hope he got to where he needed to be. We managed to get near the rental car area of the Medford airport to drop the girls off. Of course, we completely didn’t think about getting anyone’s number to be able to contact them again! After Marnie bought us breakfast at McDonald’s, we drove home.
When we were at the Brown Mountain Shelter getting water at the pump, both Sleepless and the British girl said that when they stopped having fun they wouldn’t keep going. “It’s just a hike,” they said. Marnie and I realized that we weren’t having fun on our hike. While we admired the scenery and appreciated God’s beautiful creation, we enjoyed our time at the resorts much more than our time in the woods. Being out in the woods with our packs just started feeling like a chore more than a fun trip. A thru-hiker at one of the springs said, “Now I understand Oregon. It’s so chill.” The thru-hikers were cruising along up and down while we were struggling with the climbs, not thinking it was chill at all. It was discouraging, although when we thought about it we knew we could be no match for their 1700-mile legs. In spite of all that I think we would have continued on at least to Crater Lake, if we could have found a solution to the water situation. There is a 20-mile water carry between Fish Lake and Crater Lake, which for us would have been difficult since we aren’t doing 20s. Then there are fires just past that area as well and a lot of smoke so we might not have been able to get a good view of Crater Lake even if we made it there, and obviously fires and smoke make it unsafe to hike. Most NOBO thru-hikers are flipping from Fish Lake or Ashland up to Santiam Pass (Bend) or Timberline to avoid the fires and smoke. Then once you get to Bend/Santiam Pass, you have to get a ride around the Lionshead fire closure to Olallie Lake (if someone doesn’t mind taking you down the horrible road) or up to Frog Lake or Timothy Lake near Mt. Hood. We have already done Shelter Cove/Willamette Pass to Lava Camp Lake and Timothy Lake to Cascade Locks and hadn’t planned to do those sections over.
Wildlife takeaways: We did not see any bears or mountain lions, just deer, birds, chipmunks, and the occasional squirrel. While we would love to see a bear from a safe distance, we’re just as glad none came into our space!
Thru-hiker takeaways: Thru-hikers are an amazing set of people. They were encouraging and none of them criticized or judged us (at least outwardly) when we were slow or took a long time going over logs.
Water takeaways: While it isn’t fun to carry water, you should always have a little more than you think you need. Not all water sources are reliable, even if your app says it is “flowing”. Also, drink lots of electrolytes in your water.
Food takeaways: Eat plenty of food in town, as backpacking food isn’t all that tasty. Although it might seem expensive, eat some freeze-dried backpacking meals before you go so you know whether they’re any good or not. Then you won’t end up with an inedible meal and have to deal with the leftovers. (You carry them in your trash. Hopefully it won’t be too long before there’s a trash can to dump it in.)
General backpacking takeaways: Backpacking is harder than doing things at home. It’s hard to carry a backpack. It’s hard to set up your tent sometimes. It’s hard to walk uphill. It’s hard to sleep. There’s mostly nowhere to sit except rocks and the ground, and rocks are pointy and the ground is dirty. Everything is dirty, especially your hands and fingernails. (Hand sanitizer doesn’t actually clean your hands, it just slides the dirt around.)
Central takeaway: If it isn’t fun, don’t keep doing it. It’s just a hike.
In the end, Marnie and I have decided that we don’t need to go backpacking again for awhile. We will clean all our backpacking gear and put it away carefully and be content to be at home with clean fingernails, flush toilets, and chairs to sit on while we contemplate our next adventure.
Just keep walking!
Before I go into the next sections, there are a couple things I forgot to write about our first section. The journey to the CA/OR border of the PCT was very interesting. Marnie’s hubs Steve drove us in her VW Tiguan. It takes some doing to get there. The Google Navigation Lady takes you up a lot of roads, some paved, some gravel, and some just a trail up the side of a mountain full of ruts and potholes. Then you come out onto a lovely graveled Forest Service road (why couldn’t we go on THAT road?), go up the road a little ways, and then go back because you missed the small pullout where the trail comes through. Spoiler alert: On the way back, Marnie’s hubs got a flat tire on the freeway and had to buy two new tires for her car!
We reached the pullout area and hopped out to walk (sans backpacks) the .3 of a mile to the CA/OR border. There were standup post signs on each side of the F.S. road that indicated a trail, but we didn’t see the PCT emblem. We got our photos, signed the hiker log, and were back up to the pullout in a jiffy to get our packs and start our hike on the opposite side. As we got to the road, we each looked at the standup trail signs and noticed there WAS a PCT emblem on them. We thought we were going nuts! “There wasn’t an PCT sign there when we went down, was there?” “No, I’m sure there wasn’t, how did we miss it?” etc. Then Steve, who was waiting for us, told us that workers had actually just come and put the signs on the posts. He tried to wrangle three signs for us from the worker and the worker was going to give them to Steve, but then the worker’s boss came along and wouldn’t give them away.
Another thing I forgot to include in my last post was that as we were walking on a very overgrown trail, a large white horse suddenly appeared in front of us. Thankfully there was a place nearby where we could step off the trail, because there certainly wasn’t room on the trail for us and Mr. Mega Horse! We stood quietly and let the horse and rider go by. Later that day we met the horse coming again, and stepped aside to let him pass. His rider said, “If you talk to him, he’ll know you aren’t a mountain lion,” so guess what we all three said to the horse? “Oh no, we’re not mountain lions,” we said, practically in unison, ha. The horse passed and soon we came upon a large downed tree with limbs everywhere. A sort of trail had been made by hikers up the side of the hill to go around the end of the tree, so we scrambled up and around. We still wonder how the horse got around that tree…
Many of the photos are Marnie’s. I didn’t stop to take quite as many photos because I was in the lead the whole time this trip. I was chugging up the hills and trying to encourage the others to chug along too, ha. Chug up to a shady spot. Catch your breath. Chug up to the next shady spot. Catch your breath. Whew. Down the hill – ow, my knees. Up the hill – ow, my calves. Flat trail – wheee! I think most of my best photos were of the hotel/resorts, ha.
We left Callahan’s and took the “blue blaze” road walk up the old highway to where the PCT comes out on the road, instead of going back through the railroad yard and up the steep trail we took coming down. I don’t like road walks, and this one (besides being uphill) was on a well-traveled road. It wasn’t too bad most of the way, but when a semi-truck was in our lane and a dump truck was coming in the other lane at the same time, it seemed pretty harrowing!
Once we got on trail again some people were coming up behind us and I saw Kung Fu, a hiker we had met down at the Pioneer Mail Picnic Area in SoCal and spent some time with at the Stagecoach RV Park. We had seen him the day before at the picnic table/water faucet on trail but he was busy conversing with other hikers at that time. When we saw him on trail, Marnie said, “Hey, Kung Fu!” and he looked a bit confused, but once we reminded him where we’d met he remembered and was happy to see us. He is called Kung Fu because last year when he hiked the PCT he had a Kung Fu mustache. Another hiker took our photo with him. I imagine he is in Washington by now. Our friend SnuzzNuzz who we also met in SoCal might be at PCT Days this month, and we are looking forward to seeing him if he is able to be there.
Our campsite the first night out of Callahan’s was very nice, with views of Mt. Shasta and Pilot Rock. We had many views of Mt. Shasta throughout the first and second sections of our hike. Most of our campsites were forested with no views, although we did have a view of Hobart Bluff one night. We also had many views of Mt. Ashland, as we moved further and further away from it. Every time we turned around there it was again! Marnie got a photo every time we looked over and saw the mountain, just to show that we were still seeing it.
Much of the trail this trip was very overgrown – we walked through (literally) manzanita, thimbleberries, Oregon grape, star thistles, grass as high as my face, wild rose, wild cucumber, many unidentified shrubs, and huckleberries. There were one or two huckleberries that looked ripe out of all the bushes we passed through, but no thimbleberries yet. Thimbleberries aren’t bad to walk through with their big soft leaves (they are also known as “Nature’s Toilet Paper”) but the very pointy star thistles were not fun for our legs. We saw what might be a rare lily (or maybe they had mostly all bloomed already) in the forest. There were all manner of flying insects flitting about, bugs and butterflies, dive-bombing us and buzzing around our heads. There were a few bitey bugs, but we didn’t see too many mosquitoes.
On one day we were walking through the Green Springs Wildlife Refuge. There were the usual signs everywhere about keeping your pets leashed because it is, well, a refuge for wildlife. As we walked through the refuge an older man with two large, happy doggos came toward us and the dogs galloped down the hill and started visiting with Linda and Marnie. My first instinct after he assured us the dogs were friendly was to correct his error and tell him that he should keep the dogs leashed because we were in the wildlife refuge. His response as he walked by? “I’ve never seen any wildlife around here!” I was shortly required to eat my words as a thru-hiker came up and said, “Cold drinks at the top of the hill! That man with the dogs said he left a cooler in his van for us!” and when we reached the parking lot at the top of the hill we joined a bunch of other hikers and took advantage of the cold Gatorade the man had left in his cooler. It sure hit the spot! I mean, if he left trail magic he couldn’t have been all bad, right? (Except he also let his pups potty on the trail and didn’t pick up after them, so…) At the parking lot there we met Crash. When we were in Julian, CA, in April we heard about a hiker and trail angel getting in a car accident one of the days we were there, and Crash was that hiker.
After our break at the Green Springs trailhead parking lot, we went across the road and back up into the forest. Eventually a man in a bright Hawaiian shirt came walking down the trail and stopped to talk for a bit. He mentioned a person who was supposed to be a PCT hiker and asked if we knew who she was. I know of her from the PCT 2022 Facebook group run by the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA). The Medford newspaper had done a big writeup about her, he said. This was the second time we had been questioned about her, the lady with COVID at Grouse Gap Shelter had asked us almost the same question. We never did come upon the person during our time on trail. We told him we were going to Hyatt Lake and he said that the people there were delightful, and told us to tell them we had talked to Dan the Man. He said that he was going back down the trail to collect flags that had been left during a trail maintenance job he had helped with the day before where they had picked up many pounds of trash. Funny thing was, we hadn’t seen any flags…
During a break one day Marnie was organizing her waist pack, and Linda suggested Marnie’s trail name should be “Kangaroo”, because her waist pack holds an immense amount of things. Marnie accepted her trail name so Marnie is now Kangaroo and we all have trail names!
On this stretch of the PCT there are many different kinds of water sources, one being a spring that has had a pipe put in so the water comes out in a place that is easier to reach. We came to one of these piped springs and were eager to start filtering water. Marnie and I each filled up our CNOC water bladder and Linda put her pump filter in the spring puddle and started pumping. As we were sitting there, a family came along with a father, mother, and adult daughter. It’s unusual to see a whole family on trail hiking together. The father was running back and forth taking water to the ladies to filter, and then he plopped down on his mat and his wife threw him some snacks. For a smallish man he sure was taking up a lot of space! The mother and daughter were also very small in stature and we wondered how they were getting over some of the downed trees. After this piped spring, the next water source was a terrible pond. Its comments on FarOut read something like, “Aside from all the snake friends, this pond isn’t too bad,” and “If you are entertained by watching garter snakes eat tadpoles…” etc. I said that I would die of thirst before I would go to this pond to get water! We took a break at a campsite near the snakey pond and didn’t want to get any water there, but Marnie did go down and get some emergency water for Linda in case she needed it later as she was running low. I think Marnie may have scooped up some tadpoles too! There was a less-icky pond for a water source another day and we did get water at that pond. The first time I scooped up water in my bladder there I got a large bug as well, so I poured him out and got some bug-free water. It tasted okay after filtering. There was another piped spring that was supposed to be “flowing” according to the comments on FarOut. We got there and talked to a British hiker named Sparkle for a little while, he was trying to eat his lunch but was being accosted by bees. Another hiker came along and went down to the spring before we did, and when we got down there she informed us that the pipe was just dripping, not flowing at all. After a long while she finally got half a bladder full of water and went over to filter it, while Marnie put her bladder under the pipe. One of the comments on FarOut said that if you pushed down on the pipe more water would come out, and that worked for a minute. After waiting for the water for so long, we decided that we should just dip our bladders in the puddle and be done with it. We did that and went back up to filter, and some other hikers came along. They pooled their resources (cups, Buff for extra filter, etc.) and all went down to try to scoop some water out of the puddle. When they came back up they said that the pipe wasn’t even dripping anymore. We had gotten there just in time. This was a spring that people were counting on for water, and we felt sorry for anyone that came after we did since the pipe had gone dry and it was a number of miles to the next water source.
Then there was a pump at the South Brown Mountain Shelter, between Hyatt Lake and Fish Lake. The water still had to be filtered, but it was cold and clear. The pump was huge and most of us needed help working it. When we arrived at the shelter there were people at the picnic table. One was Sleepless, a girl we had met as we were leaving Hyatt Lake. There were a couple of British girls who later purloined the campsite we wanted, forcing us to walk two extra miles to another campsite (which we were actually happy about later as it meant we didn’t have to walk so far in the lava the next day)! One of the girls was a thru-hiker and had taken some time off to fly back to the U.K. for ten days, and then came back with her friend who was hiking the Oregon section with her. Another girl came along who had a collapsible hula hoop attached to her pack! Marnie found her on Instagram, she says that another hiker was teaching her tricks with the hula hoop, ha.
The night before we got into Hyatt Lake, we camped at a site in the forest near a dirt road. (It had a helpful stump “table” where we cooked our dinners!) After we were cuddled up in our tents I kept hearing crazy laughing and some screams, and knew it couldn’t be hikers because hikers would walk on by and the noises would keep happening. Linda and I wondered if there was a maniac loose in the woods! Marnie was set up closer to the dirt road and noticed some bicyclists, and it turns out they were the ones making the noise. I had thought we were in the middle of nowhere, but I guess not!
We finally got to the trailhead at the Hyatt Lake Campground, and noticed a sign that said, “Call us at the resort and we’ll come get you!” and we eagerly got out our phones and…had no signal. Marnie and I both have the same phone carrier. Linda has Verizon which is known to work better in the mountains, but her phone was dead because the cord she had for her portable battery wasn’t working. The signs at the trailhead neglected to indicate which direction the resort was in, so I flagged down a pickup coming out of the campground to ask which way to go. Once we got on the right track, we did the 1-1/2 mile road walk to the resort, hoping there wouldn’t be too much traffic on the curvy road with little shoulder. I was in the lead booking it towards a nice brunch! I had the idea that drivers might not be able to see us on one side of the road, so I kept changing from one side to the other with the curves in hopes we could be seen better and not be squashed.
The people at the Hyatt Lake Resort are indeed delightful, as Dan the Man had said. We arrived a little after 10:30, and after we finished breakfast they let us hang out on the patio until our cabin was ready. They even asked the maid to clean ours next since we were waiting. Then, the maid came and sat with us and we had a nice conversation with her, and she said we were her favorite hikers. She came and talked with us a few times during our stay while we were sitting on the patio. She was about our age and German, I think. She had seen a mountain lion not too far from where we were on her road and there was a sign that one had been seen in the campground, so we felt very thankful that we were staying in a solid, cougar-proof cabin! The cabin was very nice and full of bear-themed décor, which made Marnie and me quite happy because bears are our favorite. The cabins are like tiny homes, and ours had a big deck with plenty of furniture outside upon which to drape our clothes to dry (we had to do sink laundry since they don’t have laundry facilities available at Hyatt Lake). Linda slept downstairs in the bedroom while Marnie and I slept in the loft which had a low ceiling. You can’t stand up in it and have to do a sort of hunch-walk to get from the very steep stairs to the beds, but the beds were quite comfy and we slept well with the windows open and a fan on.
Linda had decided to go home that first night out of Callahan’s and had called her hubs to meet her at Hyatt Lake to pick her up. She hadn’t been having a good time from the get-go and she couldn’t get her tent set up properly, and she has decided that she is done backpacking for good. Marnie and I saw them off and then spent the rest of our zero day relaxing on the patio where there was wifi, and surreptitiously feeding the plump chipmunks who live there. A man from the resort gave us a ride back to the trailhead, where we started off towards Fish Lake. The delightful lady at Hyatt Lake had even let us use their phone to reserve a cabin at Fish Lake when we couldn’t make a successful call out with our cell phones! We were able to reserve a “rustic cabin” for the next Friday and Saturday nights.
Just keep walking!
As you’ve probably observed, we are home from our hike of the Oregon section of the PCT. We were only able to go between 85 and 90 miles (total) before a heat wave, anticipated long water carries, and fires stopped us from continuing. I will post about our second and third sections as soon as I get my notes (and Marnie’s notes!) together. For now I am spending time cleaning and organizing my gear, and will start up my transcription and Etsy work shortly.
Just keep walking!
(Note: This post has been updated with more photos.)
We walked 3-1/2 days on trail and ended up at Callahan’s Lodge where we will spend two nights. Got our laundry done today and picked up our resupply boxes. There is a nice hiker facility here with laundry, shower, and hiker boxes, and they even provide laundry detergent! They allow hikers to camp on the lawn, but we have a room with our own bathroom, which is much easier. We had a good dinner last night and I ate my leftovers for second breakfast this morning with a tiny plastic spoon and knife from the continental breakfast, ha. The continental breakfast didn’t have much variety.
There was a lot of elevation in this section and uphill isn’t really our thing. Linda and Marnie were having a hard time most of the section and needed a lot of pack-off-sit-down breaks. I just hike slowly with small steps up the hills and stop in the shade to catch my breath and let my legs recover for a minute! There are lots of wildflowers blooming now, neon red Indian paintbrush, red and yellow columbine, many purple flowers I couldn’t identify, and some yellow and pink daisy-type flowers I also couldn’t identify. We camped the first night on an old dirt road, and I was a bit uncomfortable when I saw tire tracks, but all was well during the night. Linda saw a deer in the morning quite close to our tents, and I was up early enough to get a photo of the sunrise.
A hiker named Turtle came by and we couldn’t figure out what he was doing, turns out he had found a “crazy” spider that had babies on its back and was trying to get a photo of it. None of us had the oomph to go over and look at his spider!
On the way out the next day we completely missed the trail as we went up the road, and thankfully a trail runner came by and pointed us in the right direction. As we were hiking along a ridge Linda noticed that someone had left some cold beer in the cleft of a rock. Usually Marnie is chief noticer-of-things, so Linda was proud of herself for seeing it. We didn’t take advantage of the gift, though. We camped in a forested site the second night after having a rest in the shade. We saw lovely views of Mt. Shasta the whole way while we were hiking.
The third day was a big climb for miles but when we stopped to get water just before the climb a hiker promised us there were sodas at the top of the hill, and there were! We each had a raspberry cream soda while we listened to a lady named Sunshine tell us her life story and all about why she has a bear phobia. She wasn’t a hiker but was just camped near the trail magic coolers. After that it was downhill to Grouse Gap shelter which is a stone shelter oddly in the middle of nowhere, but it had a pit toilet and a picnic table, which are hiker luxuries, of course! It also had an adorable chipmunk, who we didn’t feed, although his body shape indicated he had probably convinced someone to give him their snacks 🐿
A lady was there in her van isolating from COVID, I assume because there was a bathroom there. I don’t think she expected so many hikers to come through. We were there first but quite a few hikers came in later on. There was sort of an odd variety of people there. Two older ladies were walking around when we got there and I don’t know what happened to them, and then after we sat down to cook our meals a very elderly couple came in and were walking around looking for wildflowers. There weren’t really any blooming at that time. A couple of other cars came and went after we were in our tents, at like 8:30 at night.
Next day it was supposed to be “all downhill”. You should never believe that when you hear it. It is never all downhill, but is usually uphill with a few downhills and flat spots. We had a very nice break at a big fancy house where they make a picnic table and faucet available to hikers.
A load of hikers showed up after we did but we stayed put at our picnic table until it wasn’t shady anymore. One kid was about to light up a bong and I thought I would have get out my mom voice and tell him to stop, but I guess something was wrong with it and he just put it away and left. God takes care of us so well 😊 On the way to Callahan’s I read the FarOut app wrong and thought we were where the trail to Callahan’s started, but another hiker came by and told us no, it was another 2.7 miles to the connecting trail. 😟 Linda said now they would have to kill me, ha. After making a wrong turn down a dirt road and having to go back to continuing on the trail, we found the very overgrown connecting trail. It was a long way down, through a railroad yard past a dumpster and a pile of paint cans to a very old road/trail. We made a wrong turn here as well and started taking the regular gravel road, but Marnie figured out we were going the wrong way. Once you get off the old road, you come to a road that you cross to go under the interstate. Then it’s 7/10 of a mile down the road to Callahan’s. We were so happy to get here and get showers and dinner! Neither Marnie nor Linda had eaten much of anything the whole time we were out and its no wonder they didn’t have much energy.
So far our zero day has been very relaxing. We will probably have a late lunch at 3:00 when the restaurant opens, and then dinner later on. I’m always super hungry whenever we get to civilization!
Not much else happened while we were out. Next stop will be Hyatt Lake.
(Sorry if the blog’s a little rough, I have to get used to blogging on my phone.)
Just keep walking!
When I’m planning to be away from home for awhile, I have to consider how the things I usually do will get done. Since I work at home and take care of many of the household chores, some scheduling and instructions are in order.
There is almost always someone home at our house at any given time, even when I’m not there, so it isn’t hard to get someone else to take care of my usual responsibilities. We don’t make a schedule of the kitchen chores, the Hubs and the Girl usually share those as they come up. They also share cat care responsibilities and always make a feeding schedule for Philip so he doesn’t miss a meal (he eats three meals a day of canned cat food with crunchers on the side for snacking) and so his water bowl is always full. One or the other of them will feed him at the appropriate time. The Hubs already spends time giving Philip attention and cleans the litter box, so those don’t need to be on the schedule.
The dusting, vacuuming, and cleaning the bathroom and floors will probably not realistically get done while I’m gone. I will give everything a good scrubbing before I go. The Hubs usually makes his own food and the Girl usually orders from DoorDash, so nutrition is covered. Then really the only other things the Hubs will have to do that he doesn’t ordinarily do is to pay the bills and buy groceries and other necessities, like cat food and treats. I have left him written instructions for how to pay the bills (it’s a process!) and he knows how to shop for groceries. I usually order the groceries online and pick them up at the store because then I don’t have to lift things like cases of water and 25-lb boxes of kitty litter, but he is capable of lifting heavy items and likes to pick out his own groceries. He doesn’t trust the “Drive Up and Go” employees to pick out the things he wants correctly, although they usually do a pretty good job for me and I find it a blessing not to have to spend the time going through the store. The feed store keeps a record of what I buy for cat supplies, so if the Hubs forgets they can help him out with that.
Oh, I guess the Hubs will have to do laundry as well. He and the Girl already each do their own laundry, and I have left him written instructions tacked up on the freezer that tell how to wash the towels and sheets, so he should be good there.
As far as plant care, I’m asking the Girl to water my plants when she is taking care of her chocolate mint plants on the patio.
I guess that covers just about everything. Onward to the PCT!
Just keep walking!
I set up the tent again today to do some other modifications that I hope will make things more convenient. I ordered some tiny rare earth magnets from eBay and plan to attach them to the tent with Dyneema tape to hold the doors open. The Dyneema tape will stick to the fabric of the tent. The tent came with just one toggle on each door and they are hard to open and close from inside the tent. The only issue with the magnets is that they seem to be quite brittle, as one broke in half when it rushed to attach itself to the other magnets. I hope when they are attached to tape they won’t be able to break.
I also have some hooks I ordered from ZPacks when I ordered the tent. They are sewn onto pieces of Dyneema tape. The Duplex doesn’t have any loops or hooks on the ceiling from which to hang a headlamp or some other light source, and it is nice to have your headlamp hanging up instead of on your head when you are trying to do stuff in the tent at night. And, having a different light source in your tent when you’re using your headlamp to heed the call of nature in the night is helpful for finding your tent again in the dark. I have this tiny light to use for that purpose.
I got this nifty gadget on Etsy to help push the tent stakes into the ground. It is made especially for the MSR Groundhog stakes that I have.
It may seem a little expensive, but it is small and lightweight and sometimes it is SO difficult to push the tent stakes into hard ground with just my hand! I stuck one of my name labels on the end of it and hopefully won’t lose it.
Okay, here is today’s tent setup. The tent stake pusher worked quite a bit better than trying to get the stakes in the ground with just my hand, although since our ground is hard and our “lawn” is just many layers of dandelion leaves, it was still difficult to get the stakes in by hand. I have decided that I need to tighten the side guylines more so the tent doesn’t sag inward.
I successfully attached the little hooks to the ceiling of the tent. I put one on each side so I could hang the light on the side I wouldn’t be getting out on.
After attaching the hooks, I set about attaching the tiny magnets with Dyneema tape to the tent. I rolled up the door and marked the spot where I wanted to put the magnets. I cut pieces of tape that were an appropriate size and marked the sides of the magnets so they would stick together and not repel each other.
Then I attached the magnets to the tent at the places I marked. I decided to put two on each door.
They held! But… <bumps door>. Nope. The magnets, while strong enough to stick to each other such that it’s hard to separate them, aren’t strong enough through two layers of tape to hold the door back if the door is bumped. Rats! Now I’m not going to bother with the rest of the doors. Hmph. Since time is zooming by and it will be time to leave before we know it, I don’t think I’ll try another type of magnet. Maybe I can figure something out for next year.
Just keep walking!
Today we took our last training hike before leaving for the PCT to Milo McIver State Park in Estacada (Oregon) at Marnie’s suggestion. The park is named after Milo K. McIver, who was a member and then chairman of the Oregon Highway Commission in the 1950s and 1960s. He was instrumental in investing nearly $1 billion on about 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new highway. During his term as chairman, Oregon led all other states in opening interstate freeways. The park contains a colony of Townsend’s big-eared bats, a sensitive species in Oregon, and the largest yew tree in Oregon (second largest in the nation!) is located in the park. There are a couple of nice campgrounds, some group camp areas, some day use pavilions, and equestrian trails. This was the first time any of us had been to the park.
We had a nice hike on the Riverbend and Maple Ridge trails, starting in the Riverbend side of the park. There are a few nice restrooms with flushing toilets in the park, which is always a bonus when hiking!
The Clackamas River is close at hand throughout most of the park, and it is very scenic. They have added some channels and engineered log jams to make better fish habitat.
We walked by some of the 27 disc golf holes and saw many berry bushes and flowers, and quite a lot of daisies and Oregon Grape.
There was a short trail to a landslide viewpoint. I’m sure it would have been more interesting if it hadn’t been so overgrown.
We noticed quite a number of snails on the trail, some brown and speckled and some white with stripes, with shells about an inch in diameter, but no snail photos were taken. We saw an owl that was annoying a number of birds, the birds were flying all over screeching and hollering. As we walked into the area the owl flew down toward my head and then into a nearby tree, where Marnie got this photo of it.
After our hike we decided to check out the Clackamas Fish Hatchery that is in the park. Most of the pools were empty, but there were some tiny baby salmon in a couple of big pools (with some birds standing by for a meal!), and some very large salmon in a smaller pool. In the baby pool some of the fish were jumping around the water coming out of the pipes.
The next feature of the park we went to see is the second largest yew tree in the nation. It is a Pacific yew. There was no sign to indicate which tree it was, but Linda was able to confirm what a yew tree looks like on her iPad. I had seen a much smaller one before and the only thing I could remember about it was its unique bark. We thought this tree looked like it needed some care. Since it is a feature of the park and is even on the little map, we hope that someone will come take care of it soon.
The last interesting area of the park we visited was the Milo McIver memorial viewpoint. A cobbled walk leads to the McIver memorial, and further on to the viewpoint deck where you can see Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mt. St. Helens, although today clouds obscured all but a glimpse of Mt. Hood and a snippet of Mt. Adams.
The memorial plaque has an interesting 3D sculpture of Mr. McIver. The photo above was taken from straight in front of the plaque, and the photo below was taken from the side.
After our visit to the memorial viewpoint we hopped back in the car and headed home through Silverton so we could stop at Dairy Queen, our favorite après-hike food place. We had a nice late lunch and were home by 3:00.
Everything is coming together for our PCT hike starting soon!
Just keep walking!